Here is a story where wine meets gastronomy. The 3-star-chef Michel Lorain, creator of the world-famous Joigny restaurant La Côte Saint Jacques decided to revitalize a forgotten terroir
of Northern Burgundy as he
was leaving the reins and the kitchen-keys of the restaurant to his son Jean-Michel Lorain [pic on the right], now another 3-star chef. No real retirement for Michel Lorain : He set shop on the other side of the street (the former restaurant location) and worked as passionately for the Joigny wines as he did to develop his gastronomic restaurant. He patiently bought plots on the hill just above the street in the early 1990s' and replanted Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. I tasted his Pinot Noir 2006 at the Côtes-Saint-Jacques and loved it : this 12-Euro Pinot Noir has well-integrated tannins and offers lovely aromas of jellied black fruits and underwood. But this story is centered on a forgotten variety that he successively reintroduced in the region : the Tressot. He blends the Tressot with Malbec, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon and the result is something between a rosé and a white, a Vin Gris, a high-acidity, fresh wine with light flower (rose) and fruit aromas. Tressot was still allowed a few years ago in the Burgundy sparkling but was later outlawed (another weird Appellation-rule move). This Tressot-blend wine was served on the Royal tables of King Louis XIV who loved it and allowed exceptionally the Joigny vignerons to print the Royal flower de Luce on the bottles and thus avoid the tax (couldn't the modern rulers have such grand visions for the General Good and help share what they like !). His very small production of this wine (6000 bottles/year) coupled with its affordability (8,9 Euro) means that they try to satisfy every customer with a fewSource:http://www.wineterroirs.com/
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